Bespoke, made to measure and off the rack

There still seems to a fair amount of confusion about what is the difference between a custom suit and a made-to-measure suit. Simply put:

• CUSTOM SUIT — A custom suit is made from a pattern that is created entirely from the customer's measurements. Style and options are limitless. Also, the custom bespoke suit is distinguished by multiple fittings of the pieced garment, much hand stitching, hand-set collar, hand-rolled lapels and never any fused materials.
• MADE TO MEASURE — A made-to-measure suit is made from an existing pattern that is modified to the customer's measurements. Various features (type of vents, number of buttons and stance, lapel styles, etc.) are selected from a specific set of options. he customer will have extensive measurements taken, make the style and fabric selections and the order is placed. When the suit arrives, it will get any minor alterations (probably by a local tailor or seamstress).
• OFF THE RACK — An off-the-rack or ready-to-wear suit is the least expensive and most common garment. Better clothiers offer alterations to finish the trousers and attain a better fit overall.

With few exceptions, true custom tailoring is available in large markets such as Chicago, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Boston, and , of course, Savile Row in London. Prices vary, but custom suits start at about $3,500 and go up fast. It would not be usual to spend $10,000 on a nice three-piece custom suit.

A made-to-measure suit starts at about $750. Nicer fabrics and better construction will cost in the range from $1,000 to $3,500.

Shirts are all about the fit

When purchasing a shirt — no matter whether it's a dress of casual shirt — getting the right fit is essential.

There are very few men who are a true Small, Medium or Large. This sizing is usually found with sport shirts. Small = 14.5-inch collar, 32/33-inch sleeve length; Medium = 15.5-inch collar, 33/34-inch sleeve; Large = 16.5-inch collar, 34/35-inch sleeve. There are loose standards for the chest, and a lot of variation of the measurement for the shoulders, waist and length of the shirttail.

Off-the-rack dress shirts are sized by collar size and sleeve length offering a slightly wider selection, but do not share the other dimensions. Try the shirt on. With so many imported garments being produced at very low prices, many pieces are cut from a pattern piece at one time. This leads to differences of up to 1/2-inch on pieces that are supposed to be the same size.

It has gotten to the point that some of the nicer styles by designers and houses such as MIME, Robert Graham, Ralph Lauren, etc cost more than $100 for a shirt. Once that barrier is broken, I recommend you look into custom-made — or more accurately — made-to-measure shirts.

I have always had trouble finding shirts to fit. Currently, my shirts require a 17.5-inch collar, 33-inch sleeve length, 44-inch chest and 34-inch waist. You will not find this size of the rack. Nothing is worse than a collar that is too tight. If you are a wearing a tie and the top button of your shirt is undone, you don't look casual. At best you look sloppy, at worst you look drunk.

There has been a lot written about collar types that compliment a thin face versus a round face, etc. Tom James has a online primer on the subject of collars. I take some of that with a grain of salt because I think that certain types of collars look better with particular tie knots. I favor the tight single Windsor knot which is best showcased by a tradition collar with a 3-inch point. A spread collar looks best with a double Windsor. I do not look good with a knot that large, that doesn't mean it might not be your signature look. Hey, Pat Riley popularized the spread collar 20 years ago and he still looks great in it.

One more note on collars. Narrow collars are being touted by many designers in conjunction with the skinny suit. Tom Ford and TV shows like White Collar are pushing this style to the Midwest. I will not follow suite (so to speak) because it is a passing fashion. If you are going to wear skinny suits narrow/thin collars and skinny ties, you better be pretty darn skinny yourself. If you want to wear a shirt with a narrow/this collar pair it with a slim suit with thin lapels and a skinny tie.

Here are just a few custom shirt makers: Giorgenti, Tom James, Paul Fredricks, and CustomSuitsShirts.com to name a few. A clothier such as Tom James will come to you and measure you, otherwise you must follow the instructions for measuring carefully to assure a good fit. Best to have tape measure (a tailor's tape, not one from Home Depot) and let someone else do the measuring.

Buy the garment, not the brand name

Often I am taken aback by the prices fetched by some apparel. How much value is added by a brand name? In many cases, very little.

The first example shows two denim shirts. One is available at JC Penney for $17.99, the other is offered by JL Powell at $198.00. Yes, there are differences, but not ten times better. Of course, JCP photographed the shirt in a studio when they probably were taking at least couple of dozen shots in a day. JL Powell has to shoot on location with a model and he's wearing that nifty scarf and other JLP garb. JCP versus JLP, what a difference one initial makes. If it's just the look you're after, then the choice is clear. If you are slave to labels, but still find JL Powell too pricey, try the GAP at $49.50. Need a more upscale label? J. Crew offers a denim shirt at $128.00. The more you pay, the more worn the shirt. I prefer to break in and wear out my own clothes. They last longer and somehow, it feels better to earn the wear, especially on utilitarian garments, such as denim.

On more upscale items, you can still pay a lot for the brand. In an earlier post, I wrote glowingly of Alden shoes. They are expensive, but a good value at $395 for a pair of the tassel moccasin style. Leave it to Ralph Lauren to offer a nearly identical pair of shoes for $795. Alden is a great brand and a great shoe. I'm not sure what more Ralph Lauren brings to this item.

I am the first to admit that I look to designers such as Ralph Lauren for style cues, but that doesn't mean I seek the brand for value. Ultimately, dressing well and creating a personal style is about the garments. Quality is about how well something is cut and sewn. Value is finding quality items at the best price. Style is about putting together an outfit from a set of those items that is your look.

Personally, I eschew apparel with any designer logo visibly emblazoned on the item. Why would I want a blazer with a crest on the chest that is not from my family (if they even had one) or brass buttons with someone else's initials? Set your own style, don't follow someone else's fashion. Fashion is fleeting. Your style can be enduring.

Sting, Sherman ... Zelig?

OK, this is just uncanny. After watching another awards-honorary-dedication show and seeing Sting on stage again at the Kennedy Center honors for Bruce Springsteen, I was struck by his outfit and overall appearance. I insisted that he was channeling General William Tecumseh Sherman. While most agreed with me that Sting seems to be showing up like Zelig at every turn, there were skeptics. After I threw together this side-by-side comparison, there was no denying the fact. Similar tailoring, neckwear and pose reinforce the likeness.

Black leather done right

I got my first black leather jacket when I was 23 years old. It was a beauty. A bona fide California troopers jacket with no epaulets, belt or snaps that showed. That was well over 30 years ago and I have long since given it away as it ceased to fit the lost body of my wiry youth.

Since that time, I have always owned at least one black leather jacket/coat. I seem to be on a constant quest for the best fit, feel and style. In the early 1990s, I had a friend purchase a three-button leather sport coat from England like the one he was raffishly wearing at the time. He made regular trips because he owned a home in Ireland. This coat was certified that it was made from cows/steers that died of natural causes. I sometimes wonder who and how they determined that when purchasing the hides to make these. Anyway, the coat is great but is weighs a good five pounds due to the thick hides. Not stiff, but heavy.

I wanted something that could be worn inside as sport coat. It took more than a year of searching before I found the right one. It is lambskin, three-button model with a nice cut. Too boxy and you look like some wise-guy palooka. Too tightly fitted and you can't layer pieces underneath and look like a gigolo.

I have been searching for another black leather jacket for a while. It is the black motorcycle jacket with a band collar. I already owned a refined, very lightweight version of this jacket that I wear as a layering piece underneath a sport coat. Believe me, it works. But, I wanted another the was a little less refined to wear with jeans and a T-shirt. I didn't want any stripes on the arms, no kidney belt and fairly lightweight. I finally found it at Banana Republic. The leather is soft, almost buttery. Styling so classic, it will be cool 20 years from now. (NOTE: Banana Republic clothes run small, try on one size up.)

PULLING OFF THE LOOK

• A starched white shirt under a black leather jacket is always looks great. The darker the shirt, the more you look like a wise guy.
• Wear black shoes or boots with your black leather jacket. If you're wearing a belt, it should be black. The dressier the belt and shoes, the more refined the look. Avoid wide belts with huge buckles.
• One exception to the rule above: White shirt and white sneakers with blue jeans and a black leather jacket/coat is a classic ensemble.
• Avoid the all-black look unless you are a Johnny Cash impersonator, are playing a rock-n-rock show or a Halloween party.
• Avoid other black leather garment with your black leather coat/jacket. No leather vest, no leather pants. (No one since Jim Morrison has successfully carried off this look.)

Shoes with soul

I probably own two dozen pairs of shoes and boots, but these are the ones I constantly wear and pack when I travel. They reflect my personal style. All my dress shoes are slip-ons. If I was recommending a traditional wardrobe, I would probably include a wingtip or cap-toed oxford. But if the Alden Tassel Moccasins were good enough for the ever-sartorial Cary Grant, they are more than adequate for me. Honestly, these are also the best-made shoes I have ever owned. I have a pair in black calfskin, brown calfskin and chocolate suede. Also, don't be fooled by the "moccasin" designation, these are very dressy. Yes, these can be paired with jeans, but I stick to the darker washes and it dresses up the whole look.

When I bought my first pair of Alden shoes they were about $225. Today, they are closer to $400. They are an investment. These shoes will last a lifetime. I bought my first pair 20 years ago. They have has several sets of heel plates and they were resoled once. NOTE: Find a good cobbler/shoe repair that will strip the shoe down to the mid-sole from toe to heel. Also, Alden offers a program to rebuild the shoe.

A little less dressy, but still slick enough to wear with a suit are my Bass Weejuns. These are the Logan in black, a flat face penny loafer. These are the classic. Bass has some "updated" versions that will probably not be available in a couple of years. These are the real deal. I have gone through a few pairs of these. It is not because they don't last. It is because they are such a great value that it only makes sense to have them resoled once. The MSRP is $99, but I have never paid more than $69 at the Bass Outlet store. I've had at least one pair of these in my closet (or on my feet) for more than 40 years. The Logans in black are at ease with a suit, slacks or jeans.

The last pair I am going to profile is the white leather Jack Purcell. This is one of the most classic sneakers available. Fewer and fewer people even know that Jack Purcell was a tennis star way back when .... Of course, most kids think that Chuck Taylors are just a Converse style and have no idea who he was either. But to that end, Chucks are ubiquitous, while Jack Purcells are extremely difficult to find in retail outlet in the Madison area. You will need to go online and order direct, especially for leather or styles other than white or navy canvas. On the Converse site, you can build a custom shoe to your exact specifications and have it shipped to you in four to six weeks. Here is the pair I've designed and hope to receive soon. All white, right down to the "smile" on the toe. Simple and clean. Great with jeans, shorts and can even be paired with a white shirt and sport coat (until they get dirty).

More about boots in a later post.

If the suit fits ...

Fifty years ago, if a man worked in an office, he wore a suit and tie to work. Well, maybe he wore an sport coat and slacks, if he wasn't attending a big meeting or was slumming (the old school equivalent of casual Friday). Today, the suit is seldom seen even at services. Casual Friday is every day and the term "business casual" is so loose that it includes attire that could be worn while doing yard work.

That said, there seems to be a resurgence of interest in donning a suit occasionally. If you are going to where a suit, get a good suit that is properly fitted. Here are some tips:

• If you can afford it, purchase a made-to-measure suit. There are clothiers such as Tom James who will come to you at home or work and measure you, and show a wide selection of fabrics in different price ranges. (photo courtesy of Tom James Co.)
• If you are buying off the rack, find a good tailor/seamstress. Have the suit fitted and pants hemmed. Buy the suit and take it too the tailor/seamstress to have it marked and altered by the person who is going to do the work. The skill of clothing salespeople varies and is seldom expert. NOTE: Whenever you try on a suit, be sure to fill the pockets with your wallet, cellphone and other accouterments to assure the right fit as you actually would wear the suit.
• Know the cut that works with you body. The skinny suit is all the rage, but there is a very small (literally) portion of the male population that can look good in this style. Unless you are six-foot and under 145 pounds, look for a more traditional cut. A fashionable suit will be useful for two or three years. A well-fitted (more traditional) suit will last 10-15 years or more (assuming you body shape stays the same for that long).
• Fabrics. You can never go wrong with a god worsted wool. Silk and wool blend are also very good. The materials drape beautifully and are very comfortable. Poplin, cotton and linen are popular for summer, but beware they wrinkle easily. If you only plan on owning one or two suits, an all-season, lightweight wool or wool/silk blend is the best selection.
• Colors. Every man should own one suit that is navy blue or black. These never go out of style. This is what used to be called the "marrying and burying" suit.
• Pattern. When applied to suits, pattern should be small and subtle. Thin chalk stripes, fine glen plaids or a small houndstooth are acceptable. Herringbone is also a nice traditional pattern but is often associated with English tweeds and sporting suits, so it is less formal. Larger, bolder and/more colorful patterns tend to look clownish.
• Single-breasted, double-breasted and number of buttons. I have a personal preference for double-breasted suits and sport coats, but they are an acquired taste and the selection is far less plentiful of the rack. Traditionally, the double-breasted suite coat has a peaked lapels and is ventless or has double vents. The single-breasted coat is more popular, can be single-vented, double vented or ventless. The notched lapel is the most common, but peaked lapels are being shown by some designers. The shawl collar is usually reserved for dinner jackets and smoking jackets (I think Hugh Hefner is the only man left who wears a smoking jacket).
• Pants. Plain front. Stay away from the pleats, they may come back into style, but don't hold your breath. Cuffs or no cuffs. It is a matter of personal choice. Belt loops, yes, and wear a nice dress belt. If you are very gutsy or Larry King, you can pull off wearing suspenders. Enough said.

I wil follow up with more information about suit construction and judging quality in a later post.