Fifty years ago, if a man worked in an office, he wore a suit and tie to work. Well, maybe he wore an sport coat and slacks, if he wasn't attending a big meeting or was slumming (the old school equivalent of casual Friday). Today, the suit is seldom seen even at services. Casual Friday is every day and the term "business casual" is so loose that it includes attire that could be worn while doing yard work.
That said, there seems to be a resurgence of interest in donning a suit occasionally. If you are going to where a suit, get a good suit that is properly fitted. Here are some tips:
- If you can afford it, purchase a made-to-measure suit. There are clothiers such as Tom James who will come to you at home or work and measure you, and show a wide selection of fabrics in different price ranges. (photo courtesy of Tom James Co.)
- If you are buying off the rack, find a good tailor/seamstress. Have the suit fitted and pants hemmed. Buy the suit and take it too the tailor/seamstress to have it marked and altered by the person who is going to do the work. The skill of clothing salespeople varies and is seldom expert. NOTE: Whenever you try on a suit, be sure to fill the pockets with your wallet, cellphone and other accouterments to assure the right fit as you actually would wear the suit.
- Know the cut that works with you body. The skinny suit is all the rage, but there is a very small (literally) portion of the male population that can look good in this style. Unless you are six-foot and under 145 pounds, look for a more traditional cut. A fashionable suit will be useful for two or three years. A well-fitted (more traditional) suit will last 10-15 years or more (assuming you body shape stays the same for that long).
- Fabrics. You can never go wrong with a god worsted wool. Silk and wool blend are also very good. The materials drape beautifully and are very comfortable. Poplin, cotton and linen are popular for summer, but beware they wrinkle easily. If you only plan on owning one or two suits, an all-season, lightweight wool or wool/silk blend is the best selection.
- Colors. Every man should own one suit that is navy blue or black. These never go out of style. This is what used to be called the "marrying and burying" suit.
- Pattern. When applied to suits, pattern should be small and subtle. Thin chalk stripes, fine glen plaids or a small houndstooth are acceptable. Herringbone is also a nice traditional pattern but is often associated with English tweeds and sporting suits, so it is less formal. Larger, bolder and/more colorful patterns tend to look clownish.
- Single-breasted, double-breasted and number of buttons. I have a personal preference for double-breasted suits and sport coats, but they are an acquired taste and the selection is far less plentiful of the rack. Traditionally, the double-breasted suite coat has a peaked lapels and is ventless or has double vents. The single-breasted coat is more popular, can be single-vented, double vented or ventless. The notched lapel is the most common, but peaked lapels are being shown by some designers. The shawl collar is usually reserved for dinner jackets and smoking jackets (I think Hugh Hefner is the only man left who wears a smoking jacket).
- Pants. Plain front. Stay away from the pleats, they may come back into style, but don't hold your breath. Cuffs or no cuffs. It is a matter of personal choice. Belt loops, yes, and wear a nice dress belt. If you are very gutsy or Larry King, you can pull off wearing suspenders. Enough said.
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