Saturday, May 22, 2010

Bespoke, made to measure and off the rack

There still seems to a fair amount of confusion about what is the difference between a custom suit and a made-to-measure suit. Simply put:

  • CUSTOM SUIT — A custom suit is made from a pattern that is created entirely from the customer's measurements. Style and options are limitless. Also, the custom bespoke suit is distinguished by multiple fittings of the pieced garment, much hand stitching, hand-set collar, hand-rolled lapels and never any fused materials.
  • MADE TO MEASURE — A made-to-measure suit is made from an existing pattern that is modified to the customer's measurements. Various features (type of vents, number of buttons and stance, lapel styles, etc.) are selected from a specific set of options. he customer will have extensive measurements taken, make the style and fabric selections and the order is placed. When the suit arrives, it will get any minor alterations (probably by a local tailor or seamstress).
  • OFF THE RACK — An off-the-rack or ready-to-wear suit is the least expensive and most common garment. Better clothiers offer alterations to finish the trousers and attain a better fit overall.
With few exceptions, true custom tailoring is available in large markets such as Chicago, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Boston, and , of course, Savile Row in London. Prices vary, but custom suits start at about $3,500 and go up fast. It would not be usual to spend $10,000 on a nice three-piece custom suit.

A made-to-measure suit starts at about $750. Nicer fabrics and better construction will cost in the range from $1,000 to $3,500.

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