Eternal Style

There are some men that have eternal style. Photos of such icons seem fresh even today. Cary Grant and Steve McQueen are two such icons. Their sense of style always seemed effortless, never contrived.

I recently came across The Lost Beatles Photographs: The Bob Bonis Archive, 1964-1966 in Rolling Stone and this photo of John Lennon. Taken in Shea Stadium on Aug. 24, 1966, he looks as cool today in this photo as he did then.

The Beatles were more than just a very popular musical group. They were a cultural and stylistic phenomenon. The British Invasion of the 1960s wouldn't have happened without the Beatles, and Carnaby Street fashion might have never been popular stateside.

And while Carnaby Street became very "Austin Powers" with velvet Edwardian suits, the Beatles never went so far in that direction. However, as the group started to disintegrate, there were some questionable fashion selections such as the brocade Nehru jackets pictured inside the Magical Mystery Tour album. But, the era from 1962 through 1967 represented an amazing time of music and style for the Fab Four.

Return of the Peacoat

Yes it was 45 years ago when I was in junior high, peacoats were the stylish and practical choice for winter outerwear. Now, they are back in fashion and they're everywhere. Last winter and again this season, major designers are showing variations on the peacoat. Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and J. Crew to Eddie Bauer, Old Navy and Rothco military gear. Wool versions range in price from $79 to $500 for the designer label. I think Ralph Lauren even has a cashere (Purple Label) edition at $4,995. Most of us don't travel in those circles.

A contemporary twist on the peacoat is the cotton twill version. Lighter weight than their wool counterpart, the cotton twill peacoat is nearly as warm with its poly-fill quilted lining. This also makes it a perfect piece for layering with a sweater of vest underneath. Plus, it is an economical alternative to wool. Similar coats are available in black from Rothco at $60 and in graphite from Territory Ahead at $150. The difference is the cut of the Territory Ahead peacoat is a little slimmer and the collar and lapels on the Rothco model are larger and more cut more traditionally.

Not Your Dad's White Shoes ...

But they just might be your grandfather's white shows. The days of the white belt and loafers from the 1970s and ’80s are gone with the leisure suit they complemented (not complimented because that would be too kind).

The white shoes that have made a roaring comeback for business and casual wear this summer are the white oxfords, including the bucks, wingtips and cap toes favored by grandad. The white bucks made popular in the 1950s by Pat Boone have lived down that legacy and are perfect summer footwear with jeans or a seersucker suit, especially in the office. Sometimes sneakers just won't do. G.H. Bass offers the classic Buckingham White with the red soles for $79.

A more formal look finished off with a pair of white buck wingtips from Pearl & Company at Brooks Brothers. These beauties list for about $480 but have been on sale for $366 for a while. A equally sharp alternative that represent a real value are the cap toe bucks offered by Re-Mix Classic Vintage Footwear. These shoes sell for $162. Wow! These are also available with a brown, black or a black suede cap toe for a real 1930s vibe. I personally think the all white is a classic look that is understated and enduring.

The Silly Season in Milan

The Milan menswear shows finished up several weeks ago and they were interesting, amusing and were not really significant for most men looking for clues on what to add to their wardrobes. Above you will see one of the models from the Armani show in typical leather-boy outfit the likes of which haven't been seen since the 1980s on Castro Street or in Greenwich Village. Just under that are several selections from Thom Ford's Milan show. Only the bravest fashionista would dare wear these outfits on the street. Unless your name is on the door, you won't be wearing this to the office, and even then your heirs may have a case to become the guardian of your affairs.

In all fairness, these shows have never been about what your will be seeing on the street in the months ahead. While I don't know any man in the Midwest who owns a Thom Ford suit, I know and see many young sartorial men wearing the skinny suit. Ford is largely credited for introducing (or bringing back) this slimmed down silhouette. It is not a look for the chunky middle-aged man, but can look quite elegant on the a young man with a lithe build.

What is interesting is what can be seen on the streets of Milan and Paris during these shows. This will give you an idea of what men are wearing and the real trends as practically adapted by real people.

The bottom photo montage are some of Tommy Ton's on the Street photos from Milan published in GQ. I always find this section far more instructive than runway shows. I have selected a few that you could easily see or emulate in any American city and feel cool but not self-conscious.

Blue Jeans — Perennial All-American Favorite

Jeans, denim, dungarees, levi's, 5-pockets, etc. They go by many names, but every man's wardrobe has several pairs of these. Levi Strauss is often credited with introducing the sturdy work pants. In 1873, he was granted a patent for the riveted-seamed "waist overalls." Since then, they became a mainstay for work wear right up to the present.

But something happened in the early 1960s. Levi Strauss introduced an off-white pair of jeans with a slightly slimmer cut that became an instant hit with the coffee house crowd and folk singers such as the Kingston Trio. By 1964, blue jeans became a mainstay of the youth wardrobe. New cuts, colors and patterns such as stripes and paisley proliferated in the late ’60s. Levi's dominated, but other traditional brands such as Lee and Wrangler tried to keep pace. GAP was born of the denim craze.

By the mid-1970s, designers jeans were all the rage. Blue jeans with names such as Jordache, Calvin Klein, Gloria Vanderbilt, Pepe, Sergio Valente and more were were being marketed by the hottest models and disco stars of the day. This took blue jeans off the street and elevated them from blue collar to white collar work attire. While not yet in the boardroom, the rebellious youth of the ’60s kept their denim (albeit in an upscale version) into their careers of the mid-1970s and beyond.

I could not begin to name all the brands and styles available today. Everybody makes jeans, from designers to store brands. But, here is my take on blue jeans and how they fit into a grown man's wardrobe.

First, I am talking about BLUE jeans. Generally, darker shades of blue are better, especially if they are going to work and/or are paired with a sport coat. Lighter shades of blue that are loose-fits are the men's equivalent of "mom jeans." Now, your wardrobe should have at least two pairs of blue jeans. You may have one pair of each the following black, grey and/or white — possibly dark green or tan. You should never have jeans in red, yellow, purple, orange, bright green or anything that may be mistaken for golf apparel.

That brings us the the cut. I know that skinny jeans are the fashion of the day, but they are not for everyone. As a matter of fact, they are for the select few who have skinny bodies to match the cut of the jeans. Here's a simple rule: If your waist size exceeds the inseam, you will look ridiculous in skinny jeans. I crossed that threshold about ten years ago. After being in denial for about two years, I finally bought some jeans that fit.

I wore GAP jeans for many years because Levi's weren't consistent in their sizing. I have returned to the fold four or five years ago. I am a devotee of the 501 Original Levi's. I always have two or three pairs of the Dark Stonewash. Dark Rinse and Rigid are also nice. These jeans are classic and I know I will be able to get another pair three years down the line. Another key is that even the Dark Rinse and Rigid are under $100. The Dark Stonewash can often be found at department stores for about $36.

In deference to the younger, skinnier and richer men out their, search out these skinny jeans offered by Context from the Jean Shop. They fit the way a skinny jean should. They will set you back $299 for a pair. But they are very cool.

Contrast that to the Levi's 511. Yikes! I don't know if the model is just "thicker" or the jeans are to small, but these just don't look good or comfortable. They actually can look as good as the jeans by Context from the Jean Shop. The key is don't wear them this tight or short. They are a good value at $56 to $98.

Jeans also come in a myriad of finishes. This refers not only to the color, but the relative state of distress. My preference is to wear out my own jeans. If you don't have the time nor inclination to break in and wear out your own jeans, you will pay a premium and your jeans will not last very long before they are threadbare in the most intimate places. Also, save the jeans with whiskers, tears and other signs of distress for outside work. Casual Friday still doesn't mean you can dress like you're doing yard work.

Bespoke, made to measure and off the rack

There still seems to a fair amount of confusion about what is the difference between a custom suit and a made-to-measure suit. Simply put:

• CUSTOM SUIT — A custom suit is made from a pattern that is created entirely from the customer's measurements. Style and options are limitless. Also, the custom bespoke suit is distinguished by multiple fittings of the pieced garment, much hand stitching, hand-set collar, hand-rolled lapels and never any fused materials.
• MADE TO MEASURE — A made-to-measure suit is made from an existing pattern that is modified to the customer's measurements. Various features (type of vents, number of buttons and stance, lapel styles, etc.) are selected from a specific set of options. he customer will have extensive measurements taken, make the style and fabric selections and the order is placed. When the suit arrives, it will get any minor alterations (probably by a local tailor or seamstress).
• OFF THE RACK — An off-the-rack or ready-to-wear suit is the least expensive and most common garment. Better clothiers offer alterations to finish the trousers and attain a better fit overall.

With few exceptions, true custom tailoring is available in large markets such as Chicago, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Boston, and , of course, Savile Row in London. Prices vary, but custom suits start at about $3,500 and go up fast. It would not be usual to spend $10,000 on a nice three-piece custom suit.

A made-to-measure suit starts at about $750. Nicer fabrics and better construction will cost in the range from $1,000 to $3,500.

Shirts are all about the fit

When purchasing a shirt — no matter whether it's a dress of casual shirt — getting the right fit is essential.

There are very few men who are a true Small, Medium or Large. This sizing is usually found with sport shirts. Small = 14.5-inch collar, 32/33-inch sleeve length; Medium = 15.5-inch collar, 33/34-inch sleeve; Large = 16.5-inch collar, 34/35-inch sleeve. There are loose standards for the chest, and a lot of variation of the measurement for the shoulders, waist and length of the shirttail.

Off-the-rack dress shirts are sized by collar size and sleeve length offering a slightly wider selection, but do not share the other dimensions. Try the shirt on. With so many imported garments being produced at very low prices, many pieces are cut from a pattern piece at one time. This leads to differences of up to 1/2-inch on pieces that are supposed to be the same size.

It has gotten to the point that some of the nicer styles by designers and houses such as MIME, Robert Graham, Ralph Lauren, etc cost more than $100 for a shirt. Once that barrier is broken, I recommend you look into custom-made — or more accurately — made-to-measure shirts.

I have always had trouble finding shirts to fit. Currently, my shirts require a 17.5-inch collar, 33-inch sleeve length, 44-inch chest and 34-inch waist. You will not find this size of the rack. Nothing is worse than a collar that is too tight. If you are a wearing a tie and the top button of your shirt is undone, you don't look casual. At best you look sloppy, at worst you look drunk.

There has been a lot written about collar types that compliment a thin face versus a round face, etc. Tom James has a online primer on the subject of collars. I take some of that with a grain of salt because I think that certain types of collars look better with particular tie knots. I favor the tight single Windsor knot which is best showcased by a tradition collar with a 3-inch point. A spread collar looks best with a double Windsor. I do not look good with a knot that large, that doesn't mean it might not be your signature look. Hey, Pat Riley popularized the spread collar 20 years ago and he still looks great in it.

One more note on collars. Narrow collars are being touted by many designers in conjunction with the skinny suit. Tom Ford and TV shows like White Collar are pushing this style to the Midwest. I will not follow suite (so to speak) because it is a passing fashion. If you are going to wear skinny suits narrow/thin collars and skinny ties, you better be pretty darn skinny yourself. If you want to wear a shirt with a narrow/this collar pair it with a slim suit with thin lapels and a skinny tie.

Here are just a few custom shirt makers: Giorgenti, Tom James, Paul Fredricks, and CustomSuitsShirts.com to name a few. A clothier such as Tom James will come to you and measure you, otherwise you must follow the instructions for measuring carefully to assure a good fit. Best to have tape measure (a tailor's tape, not one from Home Depot) and let someone else do the measuring.