Monday, June 14, 2010

Blue Jeans — Perennial All-American Favorite























Jeans, denim, dungarees, levi's, 5-pockets, etc. They go by many names, but every man's wardrobe has several pairs of these. Levi Strauss is often credited with introducing the sturdy work pants. In 1873, he was granted a patent for the riveted-seamed "waist overalls." Since then, they became a mainstay for work wear right up to the present.

But something happened in the early 1960s. Levi Strauss introduced an off-white pair of jeans with a slightly slimmer cut that became an instant hit with the coffee house crowd and folk singers such as the Kingston Trio. By 1964, blue jeans became a mainstay of the youth wardrobe. New cuts, colors and patterns such as stripes and paisley proliferated in the late ’60s. Levi's dominated, but other traditional brands such as Lee and Wrangler tried to keep pace. GAP was born of the denim craze.

By the mid-1970s, designers jeans were all the rage. Blue jeans with names such as Jordache, Calvin Klein, Gloria Vanderbilt, Pepe, Sergio Valente and more were were being marketed by the hottest models and disco stars of the day. This took blue jeans off the street and elevated them from blue collar to white collar work attire. While not yet in the boardroom, the rebellious youth of the ’60s kept their denim (albeit in an upscale version) into their careers of the mid-1970s and beyond.

I could not begin to name all the brands and styles available today. Everybody makes jeans, from designers to store brands. But, here is my take on blue jeans and how they fit into a grown man's wardrobe.

First, I am talking about BLUE jeans. Generally, darker shades of blue are better, especially if they are going to work and/or are paired with a sport coat. Lighter shades of blue that are loose-fits are the men's equivalent of "mom jeans." Now, your wardrobe should have at least two pairs of blue jeans. You may have one pair of each the following black, grey and/or white — possibly dark green or tan. You should never have jeans in red, yellow, purple, orange, bright green or anything that may be mistaken for golf apparel.

That brings us the the cut. I know that skinny jeans are the fashion of the day, but they are not for everyone. As a matter of fact, they are for the select few who have skinny bodies to match the cut of the jeans. Here's a simple rule: If your waist size exceeds the inseam, you will look ridiculous in skinny jeans. I crossed that threshold about ten years ago. After being in denial for about two years, I finally bought some jeans that fit.

I wore GAP jeans for many years because Levi's weren't consistent in their sizing. I have returned to the fold four or five years ago. I am a devotee of the 501 Original Levi's. I always have two or three pairs of the Dark Stonewash. Dark Rinse and Rigid are also nice. These jeans are classic and I know I will be able to get another pair three years down the line. Another key is that even the Dark Rinse and Rigid are under $100. The Dark Stonewash can often be found at department stores for about $36.

In deference to the younger, skinnier and richer men out their, search out these skinny jeans offered by Context from the Jean Shop. They fit the way a skinny jean should. They will set you back $299 for a pair. But they are very cool.

Contrast that to the Levi's 511. Yikes! I don't know if the model is just "thicker" or the jeans are to small, but these just don't look good or comfortable. They actually can look as good as the jeans by Context from the Jean Shop. The key is don't wear them this tight or short. They are a good value at $56 to $98.

Jeans also come in a myriad of finishes. This refers not only to the color, but the relative state of distress. My preference is to wear out my own jeans. If you don't have the time nor inclination to break in and wear out your own jeans, you will pay a premium and your jeans will not last very long before they are threadbare in the most intimate places. Also, save the jeans with whiskers, tears and other signs of distress for outside work. Casual Friday still doesn't mean you can dress like you're doing yard work.